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Where to Buy Shiplap

Since posting our Shiplap Update from Mouse House last week, I’ve had several readers contact me about where to buy shiplap. So I thought I’d spill the beans today for the rest of you 🙂

Are you stumped on where to buy shiplap? I'm sharing our sources today on the blog! | The Harper House

 

For some crazy reason I have yet to figure out, my local big box stores (Home Depot, Lowes & Menards) do NOT carry shiplap. At least, not the real shiplap with the square rabbeted edges like I wanted. They had plain ol’ pine boards and tongue and groove boards also – but that was not the look I was going for. They would certainly work for some projects, but personally I don’t care for the v-groove look and was after the REAL DEAL.

Are you stumped on where to buy shiplap? I'm sharing our sources today on the blog! | The Harper House

Are you stumped on where to buy shiplap? I'm sharing our sources today on the blog! | The Harper House

Where to buy Shiplap:

We purchased the shiplap you see above from our local lumber yard! Remember those guys? The ones who were selling lumber, nails, hammers and screws way before the big box stores were even in business?

oh yeah, those guys.

I know, they are not the first ones I usually turn to either. But in this case, they really came through for us and had exactly what I was looking for at a decent price!

We live in the midwest, and we purchased ours from Alexander Lumber (you can view their website HERE. ) They had samples on hand for us to look at. They placed the order for us and the boards were delivered in a couple weeks.

Here is the exact brand of shiplap we used:

Are you stumped on where to buy real shiplap? I'm sharing our sources today on the blog! | The Harper House

So how much does it cost?

We paid $0.80/linear ft. for our shiplap. So for instance, a 12 ft. board cost $9.60. So it is not a cheap way of installing shiplap. But it is the real deal, and I much prefer it over other alternatives and I think it will offer our flip house much needed character for minimal investment. If you’re looking for quicker and cheaper ways of adding shiplap to your home, check out these 15 awesome shiplap tutorials.

I mean, you can’t beat the look of the finished product (even looks great before paint!):

Are you stumped on where to buy shiplap? I'm sharing our sources today on the blog! | The Harper House

Are you stumped on where to buy shiplap? I'm sharing our sources today on the blog! | The Harper House

So if you’re wondering where to buy shiplap – just give your local lumber yards a call. They are super helpful and you’ll be helping out the little guy.

UPDATE | Check out our progress and see how the shiplap looks painted SW Alabaster HERE.  And checkout the finished kitchen reveal too!

Be sure to follow me on Pinterest and Instagram for more inspiration, ideas, and Mouse House updates!

**check out what I just found on AMAZON! I am loving all their farmhousey decor lately, and they usually ship super fast too!



 

Are you stumped on where to buy shiplap? I'm spilling the beans on where we purchased real #shiplap for the flip house today on the blog! | The Harper House

 

linking up to these aweseome parties:

thrifty decor chick 

 

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71 Comments

  1. Pingback: Flip House Update: It's Shiplap Week! | The Harper House
  2. Pingback: Flip House Update: Painting the Shiplap | The Harper House
  3. The house looks AMAZING. What primer do you use before painting? And how many coats of each? (paint&primer) do you use?

    1. thanks so much Syndie! We used Zinsser’s Fast Prime 2 primer and the walls just needed one coat of primer and one coat of paint (Sherwin Williams Promar 400 (eggshell). My husband used our paint sprayer to do both coats – but just use a light hand with the sprayer as you don’t want drips or too thick of a coat to remain in the horizontal grooves between the boards. Hope this helps!

    1. thanks Bee, but actually HD is only carrying it in a few states and does not have it in the Midwest where we live 🙁 I’m guessing with the success of Fixer Upper more big box stores will start carrying it though (at least if they want to make some $$!)

      1. Shiplap just came back in stock at Home Depot, I just ordered some, it’s 6″ x 72″. Mine should be shipped to our house soon in MN!! So excited, been looking all spring for this!

      2. I just ordered shiplap boards from Home Depot, they are actually back in stock, and should be delivered to our home in MN soon!! So excited!

    2. Yes, we got it from Home Depot also. Depending on which you choose it’s a little less there. Although it looks like the equivalent of what you ordered is about $9 per board also.

    3. Just reading comments as we try to figure out where to get our Shiplap from. From the looks of it, the Home Depot shiplap linked here isn’t actually the true square edges, right? It appears to have some of the “curve” in them?

      1. I’m not sure, Home Depot may be carrying the real stuff finally. You might want to go in the store and check them out for yourself. Good luck!

  4. Awesome post! I am absolutely obsessed with the use of shiplap, and you guys did an amazing job! My fiancé does rehabs and finds a good bit in some of the older homes in GA. He recently got lucky with one of the homes, and was able to bring some home! So I’m hoping we can put it to good use at our home! 🙂

    1. thanks so much Kayla! It really is amazing how much texture and dimension it adds to a an otherwise basic space. I absolutely LOVE it! That is awesome that your hubby found some – total score! thanks for reading 🙂

  5. Hi! It looks like you installed with the smooth side exposed. Is that correct?
    I just purchased some shiplap and after my contractor started installing I noticed he had the rough/almost ribbed side exposed so I had him flip it. Just curious if yours had a rough side and if you exposed the smoother side?
    Thank you!

    1. Hi Mep – our shiplap was smooth on both sides. If yours had a rough side, I definitely recommend using the smooth side (unless you’re going for a super rustic look!) Good luck with your project!

  6. Pingback: My Shiplap Feature Wall (with Bonus Faux Fireplace!) - sledgehammerqueen
  7. Hi, my husbands concern in our new home build is the trim? How do we add trim with the thickness of the shiplap? Any suggestions or pictures of yours with the trim?

    1. Hi Emily – thanks for stopping by. We just installed our trim directly over the shiplap. this is much easier to do too if you’re building new rather than trying to match up existing trim depth. I will try to find some pics and email them to you. Good luck! xo, Christy 🙂

  8. Any idea where to get shiplap if local lumber companies don’t carry this type? All 3 local lumber companies have access to shiplap that has a larger gap inbetween or has curved or v shapes. This is NOT easy to come by. We might have to have it custom milled which takes more time and money. Any online sources that might be worthwhile?

    1. So sorry to hear that you’re having trouble finding it Lisa. I felt the same way too until I stumbled upon it at our lumber yard. You would think the big box stores would be dying to carry it, since it’s so popular right now! Did you ask for that exact Amerhart brand and product code? I’m surprised they can’t order it in for you. I did find this website to have quite a bit of helpful info – http://www.buffalo-lumber.com/shiplap-siding.htm Good luck!

          1. Hi Mallory – we used the 1×8 boards and they were untreated pine. Thanks for reading!

  9. Or you can just buy pine boards and route the square groove yourself. Always remember to paint the back side of your shiplap on all exterior walls, as well as use liquid nails to adhere them. Otherwise your going to experience cupping and curling. I always paint the backside with exterior paint that has thermal and vapor barrier in the paint, use biscuits, liquid nails and trim screws to put it up.

  10. Pingback: our farmhouse kitchen reveal | The Harper House
  11. Big box stores (definitely HD, not sure about L) sell it. It comes in 6-8′ sections in widths of 6-8″. Maybe they didn’t in your area or maybe just in big cities? Not sure but they do sell it…

    1. thanks for that info Melanie. Are you sure it’s the square-edge shiplap and not tongue & groove? I know our stores here in the midwest don’t carry the square rabbeted edge version for some reason 🙁 The other good thing about ordering from your local lumber company is you’re able to get much longer lengths! We are putting it up in our current house and were able to achieve an almost seamless look by using the 16ft long boards.

        1. no, we didn’t paint the back side of the shiplap. We used 2 1/2″ finish nails (16 gauge) with the finish nailer to install the shiplap. Hope this helps 🙂

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  13. Pingback: Farmhouse Style Kitchen Details | The Harper House
    1. I think you’re referring to their tongue and groove car siding? I wasn’t able to find any that didn’t have the v-shaped groove. Could you link to where you found it Brenda? thanks so much 🙂

  14. Pingback: Our Fixer Upper Mudroom Reveal | The Harper House
    1. Yes! It looks like Home Depot is finally carrying it – better late than never! Although some of the reviews said a lot of the boards were warped, so just make sure to check them all and return any unusable wood 🙂 Good luck with your project!

  15. Really loving this and hoping you can help me! Our contractor just installed shiplap in our home and then painted it and it looks horrible! There are so many texture issues that in many places the paint looks like there are dark smudges and there are even holes in some of the boards. I’ve talked to the lumber place that ordered it and they’re acting like I’m crazy for expecting it to be smooth? Any idea what the dydfrence between what you have and what I got might be? I’d be so so grateful for any help! Thank you

  16. This turned out so great! I was really hoping you could help me…our contractor just installed shiplap in our boys’ room which was then painted white and it turned out horribly! It’s a rough surface and so in many spots the paint caught and it looks like dark smudges 🙁 There are even holes in it. I called the lumber company and they acted like I was crazy for expecting shiplap to be smooth but I’ve literally never seen shiplap look like this…do you have any idea why our shiplap might have come out this way? It’s such a disappointment and now I have to have it ripped down and redone, but I’m not even sure what to use. Would be so so grateful for any help! Thanks!

    1. Wow, I’m so sorry you’ve had such a bad experience with your shiplap 🙁 Definitely not fun! I’m wondering what kind of wood your contractor used for the shiplap? Was it pine? (we used pine) If so, pine is a smooth surface so it should have rough patches. It does, however, have knots and holes. My hubby filled most all our holes with wood putty prior to sanding & painting. Is it possible they used cedar shiplap? Cedar would have a rougher texture to it, so not ideal for shiplap. Did your shiplap have 2 different surfaces on each side (a smooth surface on one side and a rough surface on the other side?) I have seen it come like that. Regardless, don’t let the lumber company condescend your wishes! You are not crazy at all for thinking that is should be smooth – who wants a million splinters on the wall of your boy’s room? Stand your ground with your contractor and have them fix it to your satisfaction. You are the customer and it is their job to make you happy. And don’t pay them until they make it right! Good luck!

      1. When I did my shiplap walls, I would up sanding them down with a fine grit sandpaper to smooth them out a bit. For larger holes and dings, I just used wood putty (Thank you for the tip on using auto body filler!). Overall, they turned out very nice after installing and painting them. Hope that helps!

  17. We are remodeling a 1928 historical house in Abilene Tx. Taking out tons of shiplap? How do we sell the rough shiplap? Jill

  18. One more question… does your shiplap have the “nickel gap” in it that I’ve read about in some of the above links?

    1. yes, ours does have a gap – you can make the gap larger or smaller when installing it. I prefer to have about a 1/8″ gap or so…

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  20. Pingback: Shiplap Guide: Shiplap, Tongue & Groove, and Plank Walls (Part 1)
  21. HI, JUST AN FYI, LOWE’S IN COOKEVILLE, TENNESSEE ACTUALLY STOCKS SHIPLAP IN TWO WIDTHS… WE ALSO SPEND TIME IN LAS VEGAS, NEVAVDA AND LOWE’S DOES NOT HAVE IT.. YOU HAVE TO SPECIAL ORDER IT…. I GUESS THEY STOCK IT WHERE IT IS COMMON… NOT SURE….

  22. We have an unfinished basement. We are thinking of adding shiplap. If you use shiplap, do you have to put Sheetrock up first? Right now we just have the insulation with plastic over the insulation. I have heard that you don’t put up Sheetrock, but rather just the shiplap right to the studs. If there’s a gap, doesn’t it show the insulation? It just seems like it would not be finished feeling without having Sheetrock up first, but at the same time, if you have to do both, that would get spendy. Also, our unfinished basement is about 1700 SF. Do you think doing the whole thing shiplap would be overkill. If so, do I do it in just one room and maybe the ceiling in the other rooms, using shiplap, so it s the shiplap walls together in the one room? So many decisions. . Thanks for this great blog. Wow you answered a ton of my questions already that I was wondering.

    1. Hi Shawna, you have some great questions! First of all, I would make sure your basement is 100% dry before installing shiplap anywhere. Some basements in my area are damp and prone to water seepage and you definitely don’t want water mixing with your brand new shiplap, lol! Personally, I would install sheetrock (drywall) on any exterior walls just to give you a tighter seal and better insulation. Then you can install your shiplap over that (this is what we did in Mouse House.) On interior walls, it’s not as necessary to have drywall first. If you use real shiplap (with the the rabetted square edges) those edges overlap each other and you will not see anything behind them. If you’re worried about cost, I think several feature walls would look great. Just choose where you want your focal points to be and maybe install shiplap on those few walls. I don’t think you need it on every wall. You could also use it more like a wainscoting and install shiplap 3/4 of the way up the wall and paint (or even wallpaper) the remaining top portion. There’s so many ways you can do it. Good luck and thanks for reading!

  23. Pingback: White Paint Colors: 5 Favorites for Shiplap | The Harper House
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    1. The finish we used was eggshell (between flat & satin). I personally don’t like the paint with primer already added, but I’m sure you could use it if you wanted to. Just grab a sample first to make sure you like it. Thanks for reading, Judy!

    1. We tried to use the longer boards so we wouldn’t have too many vertical seams. But if you use shorter lengths, then I would definitely recommend staggering your pieces.

  25. Home Depot sells real shiplap! Just is nickelback shiplap and preprinted. Easy to put up and you can leave varied gaps if you want. Easy to cut too and it comes in up to 12 foot lengths which made it easy to complete our feature wall without seams. Love it!

    1. Thanks for the info! When I first wrote this post several years ago, none of the big box stores carried shiplap. But it looks like they’re finally jumping on the band wagon 🙂 Better late than never, ha!

  26. I love the look and you’re right, it looks good even before its painted. One design question, why not stagger the boards? Was it too busy? Did it have to do with the size of the room?
    Great project! Great result! Thanks for sharing.

    1. Thanks for reading Scott, we tried to limit the number of cuts in the boards just for ease of installation and a more seamless look. We were able to get a lot of 16ft boards from our lumber company so it worked perfectly for our space. However, if you’re using shorter boards I would definitely recommend staggering the joints! Good luck!

  27. Thank you for this! Just got this exact shiplap delivered from Alexander’s yesterday! Exactly what I was looking for, and great quality! It’s a little pricier now, but still worth it to me! (1.16 per linear foot)

  28. Many thanks for all the helpful information, tips and ideas.
    Your Shiplap renovation was already a few years ago. Do you have problems with the boards warping or tearing?
    My lumber dealer says that dried boards in a width of 1×8 or 1×10 will warp when they are painted and then exposed to the warm room climate. And he cannot recommend this.
    Do you have any experience with this?
    How thick are your Shiplap boards?

    Thanks for your answer,
    Alex

    1. Hi Alex,
      We used 1×8 pine boards in the 3/4″ thickness. It seems funny to me that your lumber guy doesn’t recommend this, since they’ve been using boards like this for construction for at least 100 years! LOL 🙂 We’ve used shiplap in at least 3 homes and haven’t had any problems with warping whatsoever. Are the lines and spaces between boards absolutely perfect and consistent? no. But that doesn’t bother me at all since I like a more casual, farmhouse vibe. If you are looking for a product that will give you perfectly straight lines and a more modern look, then you might want to try the mdf shiplap boards which you can find here . Thanks for reading!

  29. You can also try WR Robinson in Massachusetts, I bought a tractor trailer load to do the walls and floors in my house in Austin Texas.
    Can’t beat the quality and price!

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